Remembering Sheila Lukins

Giving honor to a culinary icon

By Khalil Hymore

When I found out that Sheila Lukins had passed away recently, I immediately thought of my mother. While not quite the household name that Julia was, or Martha is, Sheila Lukins impact on the American home cook was no less profound, and my mother adored her...or more specifically her recipes contained in The Silver Palate Cookbook.

I've written about The Silver Palate Cookbook before. I am a firm believer that every kitchen in America should house this classic tome, alongside The Joy of Cooking and Mastering the Art of French Cooking. Like Julia Child, Sheila Lukins is largely credited with expanding the culinary repertoires of cooks across the country. Furthermore, it's obvious to me that without Ms. Lukins contributions there would be no Martha Stewart or Ina Garten.

My mom cooked from The Silver Palate religiously. At the holidays, she would always prepare Lukins stuffed grape leaves, pate maison, and molasses cookies for our big Christmas party every year. In fact, whenever I am missing my mother, I whip up some Silver Palate pate from her grease-stained, dog-eared copy.

Sheila Lukins career began in the early 1970's when she opened a small catering company out of her home upon returning from London's Cordon Bleu Culinary School. In 1977, she teamed up with Julee Rosso to open The Silver Palate, a famous gourmet food shop on the Upper West Side of Manhattan, selling everything from prepared soups and sauces to homemade pickles and preserves.

Lukin's star really began to rise when she and Rosso published The Silver Palate Cookbook. Highlighting fresh and ethnic ingredients, The Silver Palate Cookbook encouraged easy entertaining. Where Julia Child was complicated and sometimes fussy, Lukin's style was simple and effortless (a style Ina Garten has since replicated)...and modern!

I was saddened to learn of Sheila Lukin's passing at the age of 66 of brain cancer because, like my mom, she was too young. Incidentally, both Lukins and my mother learned of their illnesses 3 months before their deaths. If they weren't already, Sheila Lukins and my mom they will always be linked in my mind.

Now, as I sit perusing my ancient copy of The Silver Palate Cookbook (carefully, as it is so well loved!), I can see why Lukin's style was so appealing to so many women, and my mom. The Silver Palate is written in a style that conveys the joys of cooking; cooking as a hobby, or cooking as travel. It asks it's reader to go on an adventure to a new land, or at least across town to find that very special ingredient! Julia encouraged American women to cook better, Sheila made cooking fun.